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Negotiating For Your Car A Guide To New Car Bargaining

There is nothing more important than negotiating your new car. There are numerous websites and, of course, your dad to consult. Make sure you check out Cars.com, YahooAutos.com, AutoBytel and Edmunds.com. These sites will tell you what dealers are charging, the average, and you can research car purchase quotes for free. These sites will also prep you on what salespeople will say to ‘scam’ you into a car you may not want. You will learn how to control the conversation, how to keep the upper hand. Because, at the end of the day, both parties want to get the best deal, you need to make sure that you’re on the winning team. The site will also show you the basic scams that sales people will try to trick you into. Read the points below and you will be turned into a negotiating ninja in not just car buying, but everything!

 

Important! Before You Go, Make Sure You Know The Following Information:

  • Have You Read Our Guide On Buying Used Cars? Read This



Devise Your Strategy

  • Ok. You’ve done the research. You know exactly what the dealer paid, you figured out the 5% profit offer. Already, you’re ahead of the game. Every other schmuck is just wandering in off the street looking for a shiny color. Not you. If you are lucky enough to have a friend that has purchased a car lately, you’re in luck. Be a little sneaky, ask for those papers and check them out. Familiarize yourself with the buyers’ forms. This way, you’ll know what you’re looking at. Most importantly, feel intimidated. He’s a car salesman. You’re the customer. They need you, not the other way around.

Negotiate After A Meal.

  • You don’t buy groceries on an empty stomach, why would you buy a grand new car before breakfast? Seriously, make sure you had some good sleep. It’s also important that you’ve showered and you’re dressed comfortably. This doesn’t mean an Iron Maiden tee and cut-off’s. It also means no stilettos for your trip out and you don’t need to wear a tie. (Don’t try to impress the salesperson with your fake Rolex, either.) If you are battling a cold skip car shopping. It also helps to have your own calculator for your loan calculations. I mean, you already crunched your budget numbers, so you’re not re-inventing the wheel. Not that you’d get lied to, it is just a smart, involved thing to do. It shows that you’re interested and keeps people on their toes. Next up in your arsenal, a file folder of all your notes, your printouts, ads from the dealership next door and website quotes; you will have all your model option prices in hand. Trust me, the folder will strike fear into the hearts of salespeople everywhere. Make sure you’re in your most relaxed state. Do some yoga or deep stretching, as tense negotiations can be tiresome.

Know Your Car Financing Options Before You Go In.

  • You don't want to get suckered into the dealer's financing options as a way for them to get the price down on your car. Tell them you already know you can finance the car at the rate you researched online. This will let them know right off the bat, you are here for a good deal. For the most reputable and quick loans, check out MyAutoLoan.com and Any-Credit-Auto-Loans.com. Knowing your car loan options makes dealers think you want to close a deal fast and this can also help in negotiating a good deal. It just so happend we have a whole section on How To Get An Auto Loan.


 

Know How Much Insurance Will Cost On The Car You Want So You Can Factor That Into The Price:


 

Quick and Clean Deals Are Good For You.

  • The typical commission on a car sale is about $50. You really shouldn’t shadowbox around who you’re financing from. (Ideally you already have financial backing through your bank or credit union.) Keeping in mind that you are the boss, only give this sales person 30 min to seal the deal. Time is money. You’re not asking for the moon, here, you’re simply outlining a deal that happens every second at every car dealership every day. Next, you will see the salesperson vaporize into another office to ‘ask the boss’ if the deal is on or off. If this happens more than once, let them know that they’re merely wasting time. You’re outta here in 20 minutes, deal or no deal. If you can’t get it done in 30 min, pack it up, you’ve got more dealerships to hit. Because, honestly, if the salesperson won’t get it solidified in 30 min, it becomes vendetta. You’ve stonewalled them and now there’s no way he’s going to work with you on the deal.

Buddy systems are your lifeline.

  • It’s best to shop in pairs and don’t separate. All for one and all that jazz. Salespeople hate the buddy system, there is no disputing the deal and what was said—there’s corroborating witnesses. If there’s a discrepancy, it’s your word against theirs. (Most car purchases don’t resort to the courtroom, but, it does happen, and you just never know.) Your shopping buddy is also the ‘bad cop’ or ‘good cop’ depending on who you want to be. They are there to ask the hard questions, to be the nay-say-er. So, they’re trying to talk you out of it and you are pickling the car dealer. If you’re the positive guy, the salesman should be reactive and defensive to your “bad cop’s” whining. This is mainly to break their concentration and drive them insane.
  • If he’s any kind of real salesman, every trick in the book will come out. It’s just the way things are done. It even works, on lesser customers. Negotiations are to be suspected unless they start to seem unfair. If the dealer use more than one salesperson, that’s an unfair negotiation. Also, any place that charges you MSRP is a joke and doesn’t deserve your time. If someone says “this deal is only good today” laugh right in they’re face. If you’re at Bob’s Pizza Shack, that might work. But, since you’re a grown up trying to make a grown up deal, just leave. Don’t ever be afraid to simply walk out. Salespeople fear the walk out.
  • If they offer to show you the chart of cars sold this week, again, get the hell out of there. That place is using tricks from the Ice Age. However, it is easy to turn that argument around. When the sales guy tries to say “hey, I’m trying to send my kid to college here” you get to say, “what about your sales chart? You sold a bunch of cars, right? You can afford it.” Maybe mention you can’t feed your kids with their weak deal. Some sources tell you to shop at the end of the month because the dealers want to make quota. It’s a crap shoot, really. The dealer could be just as difficult as at the beginning of the month. You could shop close to a holiday for the best deals. It all depends on whether or not the dealer is being a ball buster.


Your deal is rock hard, just like your resolve.

  • Your spreadsheet is going to come into play now. You’ve been dominating the conversation, putting yourself in charge of the deal. You can also use body language to show the salesperson how serious you are about the day. If they try to interrupt, raise your hands authoritatively as if to say “don’t bother”. Slowly, succinctly walk them through how you figured out your payments and numbers. Keep mentioning the big picture. Your business will stay with this dealership. All of your oil changes, your warranty, services and parts will go through their body shop. Everyone knows that those departments are the money makers.
  • The salesman may scoff at your reasoning, as if they don’t care. This merely means that this guy is a goof and will be pouring lattes at Starbucks in a week. If they do laugh, finish out your proposal anyway. At the end of your ‘pitch’ remind them that this is the deal that you’re offering to the next dealer and there is no wiggle room. Your confidence will be palpable and you’ll Jedi-mind trick them into your deal. It may, however, go south on you, resulting in a string of obscenities and ranting about taking food off their table. Don’t fret; this is all part of the game. Be ready for it, it’s coming in some form. You’re just getting them to low-ball the MSRP. If you’re patient and mature, people will deal with you. No one wants to help out someone who is crying in an office. Do not respond to their insults. I mean, stay cool, and keep it like Fonzy. Emotion is catchy, if you’re temperature is rising, you’ll encourage them to do so as well. You need to stay intelligent and professional.


Splitting the Difference Means You’re Not Getting What You Asked For.

  • Compromise means no one’s happy. Splitting the difference is the worst kind of compromise. They’re still keeping more than %5 profits and not giving up enough to you. Do not back down. They’ll throw you a meager few hundred dollars off. Please! Stay strong and be ready to politely walk out. Believe me, their crappy deal will be there tomorrow morning and the week after. They aren’t dealing with some green, wet behind the ears chump who saw a pretty car and walked in. You have numbers and a plan and you know that what you’re asking for is not the moon. Don’t be seduced by the “overhead” sob story. Most dealers ‘borrow’ cars and it costs them no more $200 a month to cover that. If the car is there for more than four months, it costs them $800 (worst case scenario) to show this car. For all intents and purposes, this guy needs to get rid of this car. He is literally paying money to not sell it. Doesn’t make any sense, huh..? Exactly. It’s a pack of lies. Usually the salesman doesn’t even have this information, so, you’re still ahead of the game.

Want To Totally Decimate?

  • You walked in like a winner; you showed them your checklists and spreadsheets. Now you’re going to remind these people that they are losing money to online car salespeople. Again, they’ll try to play it off like it’s no big deal. Soon, reviews will be available for all of the high-rolling car websites. Soon, those websites will completely replace the haggling and back and forth nightmare that uninformed fiasco that car buying can become. You’ll just have to mention to the sales guy that you are not the kind of person that can be influenced and you’re not in the mood for cheap talk and pretend pleasantries. You know that people can buy cars online, but, you’re willing to give it a shot.


Take control of your buying experience.

  • Maybe you’ve got it down to two dueling car dealers offering you the deal you want. You’ve finessed and finally pickled two dealers. You had planned on telling the other dealer your previous deal, in the hopes of having them match it. It basically boils down to one in the hand or two in the bush. There’s going to be low-balling and try to play games. Two options: drive across town, willing that sweet deal to be there? Or, sign a complete, comparable deal now? Understand that the entire deal is what you need to keep in mind. That sexy deal on the other side of the middle of nowhere sounds good now, but, they could be planning on tacking on some useless fees. You guessed it; you blew a tank of gas AND ended up spending more money. You want the best deal and the easiest way to get it.


When you find the deal of a lifetime, fax it to 5 other dealers.

  • This is a tested method that is able to save you some real money. It also opens up the ‘bidding’ for your business. Be prepared to get more faxes proposing better deals. Of course compare this deal to online quotes on Cars.com, Yahoo!Autos.com, Edmunds.com, and AutoBytel.com. Sometimes you won’t even have to actually go shopping at all. The dealers can fax back an acceptance letter. Our readers have gotten serious results from this technique.This bargaining tool works well with buying anything. If your car ever needs a paint job, get one place down to the lowest price and get an invoice. Drive that invoice around to a couple other places and I guarantee it will be beat.


Locate the Car You Want at the Price You Want

Save Your Money By Negotiating With These Tips:

 

 

Important! Before You Go, Make Sure You Know The Following Information:

  • Have You Read Our Guide On Buying Used Cars? Read This

 

  • First, always try and get the dealer to get to their lowest breaking point, without ever saying what you want to pay. Once you get them down to their lowest price, offer them 10% lower than that and that’s where you begin the bargaining. I use this tactic when bargaining for goods all over the world. In Thailand and China, if I see something I like, I get the merchant down to their lowest price always telling them their price is too high. Once I get them to their lowest point, I name my price 50% below that and I know that is where their breaking point is. That is always the price you want to pay. Remember, sellers think in profit denominations. They are never going to recommend to you the price you really could get away with buying the car for. Put yourself in their shoes, would you name your breaking point? Never move from the “Dealer Cost” upward, as mentioned, there is no dealer cost. It’s a total scam. They ‘rent’ every car you see. Toss out your banker’s guides and use your laptop to calculate what the proper dealer cost is. It is generally 5% above their cost if you can get that number. Just don’t be intimidated when an invoice is flashed in front of your face and stick to it that your sources for how to get a good deal on a car are reputable. They will call your sources false and give you with a condescending tone for all of your hard work, but you deserve a good deal after all that research. Get the deal you want, not the price they want you to pay no matter how ‘nice’ they are.

No Haggling? More Like No Bargaining!

  • Haggling is the only cool thing about car shopping. If the car dealer you’re at doesn’t haggle, there are hundreds that will. If you’re thinking that things will be easier at a no haggle dealer, you’re wrong. No haggling means you pay what they ask, no exceptions. Now, some no haggle places are ok but some use the phrase to pad the MSRP, making their deals look better when they’re really not. It’s natural for people to backslide and get comfortable when they see “No Haggling”, like it’s going to be two buddies kicking back over some coffee. It’s not. Bottom-line, some No Haggle dealers are good, but not the best deal. One rule of thumb, if the price is 5% OVER the dealer cost, you have a bad deal and it’s time to get to hagglin’.
  • Some people are too shy to haggle. That’s when the dealer will rake in a huge profit at the buyer’s expense without resorting to the high pressure antics. Most people saunter out of there thinking they got the hot deal. It’s dog eat dog out there if you want a deal, you’ll have to cowboy up and take it. Just don’t buy a deal that is no profitable for you. The money is there, you just have to ask for it and stay solid.

Negotiate The Deal On The Whole Price, Not Just The Monthly Payment

  • In case you haven’t already realized, these guys are wizards that will try to dress up any crap deal and make you feel like the big winner in the casino. Don’t be the payment buyer guy. Any huge amount of money broken down into a long term sound awesome! “Whoa! Only $400 a month for all this!” They’ll reel you in by asking “What do you want to pay monthly..?” This is a trap. Don’t fall for it. They’re setting you up to be an idiot payment buyer. What matters to you is the total cost of the car, not just what you’ll pay monthly.

Is cash king? No.

  • It’s not the 1950’s so quit thinking that paying cash will get you a better deal. Money comes from the bank just like checks. If you need cash to feel like a big deal, you haven’t been listening. It’s simply no one’s business where your money comes from. After you agree on the price, your payment method doesn’t affect the dealer at all. Plus, them knowing too much about the second half of the deal opens up a spot for them to play games with you. You just concentrate on keeping them honest and extracting an honest deal in your favor. With your financier of choice you will discuss the terms of the contract. Don’t get cocky and tell the sales person you’re paying cash. He doesn’t care and he won’t always knock down the price. It’s not Bob’s Bait Shop, this is business. Sometimes through a finance deal, they’ll make more money.

“If you finance through us, you’ll get a better deal.”

  • But why wouldn’t he just give you a break on the price anyway? This is the rally cry of the desperate. This is where he’ll drive up the interest rate a little or accidentally (on purpose) figure your monthly payments wrong. So, by paying cash, there are no scams or padded monthly payments because there are no monthly payments.
  • It is advised that you do your deposit NOT in cash. This is just in case something falls through; it’s MUCH easier to get that deposit back. Plus, it’s an instant bargaining chip to hold over their heads. At any point you can pull out, no harm, no foul. Paying with a credit deposit also aids in the building credit aspect of your purchase. If your credit is already good, it will only make it better.Make sure you check your credit with Equifax before heading the the dealer.

CarBuyingInfo.com Reccomends: MyAutoLoan.com To Get Better Financing Deals than The Car Dealers


Impulse buyers get screwed.

  • Advertising jingles are meant to get your attention. So, when they say, we’re “giving this car away at $1000 over MSRP” be ready to grab your ankles because it’s over, Johnny. You don’t need a ‘hot ride’ from this year because there will be a hotter car next year. Next year you’re car will be yesterday’s news. Demand for a car will push up the price into ridiculous ranges. One word: Miata. Right. Everyone had to have that car; it went for double the actual price when it first came out. Two years later, every yard in America had one on the tree lawn with a sign…”Best Offer”. You know that hot rides aren’t worth what they’re charging. No one will know that you paid $5,000 more than MSRP for the Miata of the moment. Just wait a bit before buying the hype, you won’t be sorry. Wait a few months for the excitement die down and you’ll have more money saved up for those pink fuzzy dice to hang in the rearview mirror.
  • You want to reduce the overall price, thus making the monthly payment less. Like Axl says, “have a little patience”. Not buying on demand is like finding an underage chick. She’s perfect and you want to take her out. So, you have to wait a few months so you don’t go to jail.
  • So, maybe you really need to stick it to one of your buddy’s. You need the newest in new and there’s no getting around it. You will pay for it. Pay for it with roughly $2,000 extra over MSRP. You may even deal with backlogged vehicles. When the balloon pops, and it will, you’re driving around a huge mistake, a monument to your immaturity. Worse still is the fact that you’re paying extra only because you won’t wait for it to become more affordable. The market value has absolutely NOTHING to do with the inflated price, it’s only because everyone wants that same stupid car. You’re going to be the first to buy and the first to lose money when you sell it.

Day 3 “Buyer’s Remorse” Is The Chupa Cabra of Laws.

  • It doesn’t exist. No matter what your good buddy the sales person told you, in most states there is no Day 3 Buyer’s Remorse Law. This law usually only pertains to health clubs and sets of encyclopedias. Some people will even use this Day 3 dream as a crutch to keep shopping even after they signed their deal. They’re driving around their new car and still shopping for a better deal..?! Wouldn’t it make sense to get the deal before you sign as opposed to after..? Right.
  • Don’t be afraid to shop your deals around. Never sign the first deal just because they write it up. This is a subtle psychological trick to nail you down. Just because they type it up doesn’t make it set in stone. If you get spooked or think you’re getting taken advantage of, don’t sign. You should be able to take a copy home to study overnight, which is a good litmus test. If it’s a particularly unfair deal, they’ll get real squeamish about another dealer looking at it, or even you really studying it. This is because it’s all MSRP prices. Write down what you can and get the hell out of there. You need another dealer, stat.
  • And just because it’s typed up doesn’t make it true. Psychologically, the brain tends not to question number amounts that are written down. They know that the brain will trick you into thinking its true. See how sneaky these guys are?! Don’t be afraid to ask for what you deserve. No one but you is looking out for your best interests. While they’re typing up the ‘deal’ they’re slowly driving your price, chiseling away at your offer, knowing full well that when you see it in black and white, you’re just going to swallow it up.
  • You don’t have to sign it. If it smells fishy, it probably is! Get out of there. It’s frustrating to feel like you wasted time, but, it’s sneaky and under-handed to secretly over charge someone. I know you wanted that car, but, this isn’t the only show in town. There will be other cars, other deals. Plus, you get to answer the phone when that slimy, scamming sales person calls a week later. He’ll be all smug and feigning interest, asking if you’re coming in for your deal. You will be avenged when you tell him you got it somewhere else for a better price. His gasp will be audible and you’ll feel like you’re ten feet tall.
  • The last thing you want to do is wake up with the feeling of being scammed. Read our article on What To Bring To The Dealer. Your strongest bargaining point in the room is having good credit. Know your credit score before you go in.


See How Lenders See Your FICO Score

 

If you can find a better price, you get $500!

  • Yeah, sure. First of all, you’re going to need the written buyer orders from another dealership. Here’s the deal—not every dealer will give you that paper work to shop it around. Therefore, few people ever have to honor this deal. You’re not buying a TV from Circuit City; don’t fall for the toaster deal. The other safety valve on that lie is that most places don’t have the same models, therefore, the sincere promises to match prices are pretty much garbage. If you feel like you need to do the legwork while buying your car, feel free. However, it’s a large pain in the neck.


“Don’t Pay Until Next Year!”

  • So the ad says don’t pay for 12 months. Maybe you go to the dealer and they say it was a typo and it was only 2 months. For an epic fail like that, the newspapers would be responsible for refunding the money for something that huge. That’s just not true. They didn’t misprint, they misled. Even then, there’s a teeny little line that says, “Not responsible for typo errors” in the small corner. Uhm. No. If that was a typographical error, so was your deposit check. You just wasted time with a bunch of idiots when you could have been buying a car. Peace.

“This won’t get this cheaper anywhere else…”

  • If you’re hearing this, you just heard the last death rattle of a crappy salesman. Mostly when someone says this, it’s wrong. However, it’s also important to know when the deal is as good as it’s going to get. Don’t be too proud to go back to a dealer and try to get your deal back. Don’t be defeated, just walk in and tell them they were right. No biggie.
  • Bait and switch is alive and well. (Neat.) You’re calling around, looking for your new car. You say “I’m looking for a silver FJ Cruiser. You guys have one of those..?” SURE we do, the sales guy says. But, get down here now, they’re going fast! So you hustle yourself down there and, wouldn’t you just know it?! Someone just bought your car, but, there’s another one over there for $1000 more. Sound like a rip-off? Yeah, because that’s because it is. I put make-up on for this?!


“The salesman gets a phone call” alley coop is the oldest trick in the book.

  • If you fall for this one, you’ll fall for the old “you better act fast; I have another buyer on the hook.” It’s the antiquated theory that the car deal becomes sexier; somehow, by you ‘overhearing’ that someone else wants your car. Well. If someone else wants a crappy deal, let them have it. You don’t have money to burn. Cautiously trap and snare your deal. You will be happy in the long run. Chances are that ‘phone call’ is a salesman in an adjoining cubicle.

Double-check the dates on the paperwork.

  • Clerical errors happen. I’ve heard of people double-checking the authorization on the drafts just to see that the sales guy wrote the date wrong. If the date is a month later than you are making the buy, you have in essence, less time to pay off the payment. If you don’t catch that mistake, you will inadvertently default on the deal, enacting a larger finance charge. This clerical error will wind up costing you a heck of a lot! Just verify the important dates; it’s easier in the long run.

Factory holdback?

  • What factory holdback..? Ok. Prepare for total education.

After the purchase of every care, there is a holdback check which is roughly 2-3% MSRP. The dealer is paid this stipend by the factory after the car is sold. Got that..? It’s almost like a rebate from the factory to reduce the price of the car. Some dirty dogs will attempt to put that on your invoice as a cost to you. This jerk just doubled his rebate on your dime. If you see anything like that on your invoice, question it vehemently. Also, when it comes to 0% financing, don’t fall for it. 0% makes it sound like a sweet deal. It sounds like the dealer is giving you the moon. That’s because you’re being fleeced. You’re probably about to be charge MSRP. Which, you already know is another scam.

No one has Credit Life Insurance.

  • Because it doesn’t exist. Credit life insurance is a total scam. So, if you hear a sales person say that you need to pay 18% interest or require you to buy the extended warranty because they can’t trust your credit life insurance, you need to report those guys.
  • A particularly aggressive sales tactic is called the turnover. You’re in negotiations and you keep being tossed to another, like pickle in the middle. These guys have no intention of actually working a deal with you; they’re trying to wear you down. They are the equivalent of a slow, painful process to break you down until you implode upon yourself like the death of a star. This plan will be hard to execute on you, since you’re sticking to your 30 minute deal breaker rule.
  • All You Need Is Good Car Insurance: Check quick rates all across the internet now with our friends at NetQuote.com


Click for Fast, Free Quotes

Everything you ever wanted to know about rebates.

  • Rebates are the unicorn of the car deal world. Newspapers are the weapon of choice. Dealers will employ newspapers to list a price significantly less than MSRP, thus, you think you got one hell of a deal. The colorful ads will scream about these insane deals! Well, that price that you see already includes rebate. Not so hot anymore, huh?
  • Ask what exactly the rebate is. Make sure they know that you know what the secret is. The words ‘non value added’ will become a huge part of your vocabulary. Trim the ‘rebate’ and the price may just be MSRP. This is the equation. MSRP minus the “price” of the car, if the difference is the amount of the rebate promised, you’re just paying the original MSRP. What the hell..? That rebate they mentioned is coming from the factory, the dealer isn’t doing his side of the work. This is where you ask for the rebate form yourself and have it mailed to your home. If you don’t know about said rebate, how can you collect? No dealer will point out the part where you should be getting MORE money.

Rebate or Low Interest Rate?

  • When deciding if you should take the low interest rate or take the money and run, figure out the loan amount and the term. If your loan is $15,000 or less, a rebate of $750 and up will trump a low interest rate. (Remember, your brain sees numbers in print and tends to make them the Bible. Don’t be seduced.) Dealers will likely dazzle you with a low or zero % loan. The reality is that if you reduce that principle with a rebate, you’re looking at a better deal.
  • Beware of the “subject to approval” hustle or “with approved credit” clauses. Beware. These words create a tiny loophole to rip you off. When you see these phrases, don’t cut them a check right away. You will likely get a call from your sales person saying that you didn’t qualify for the credit. At this point, you have lost the rebate and you’re super screwed.
  • There is no deal, so, why would you issue a check..? You will then find it harder to cut the negotiations if you want to roll out. Issue a no deposit ban. You let these guys know upfront that there will be no deposit scam because you’re not going for it. No money will change hands until everything is in writing.
  • The point is that the sales guy has no intention of “getting your offer approved.” They’re not feverishly hammering out the best deal for you; they’re tossing around ideas to break you. You have become prisoner of war; they’re devising ways to get what they want from you—which is more and more money. Don’t be mislead. Your check goes to the finance manager at the finance office. Not your sales guy.If you really feel that you need to write a check, don’t sign it. Compromise means no one’s happy, as we mentioned. So, this guy gets the safe feeling that you’re serious about the car and you are only out a voided check.

The walls have ears.

You are never alone. Charlie in the trees, the walls have ears. I’ve heard of salesmen leaving that intercom on while you wait for them to return. Now your battle plan is common knowledge. Instead of being a stuck pig, move your conference out to the hallway, or a lunch/coffee room. This way you’ve leveled the playing field a bit, plus he’ll actually have to come looking for you. If you’re alone with your documents, try to snag that pricing document. Now you have ammunition for other dealerships.

ONCE YOU GET YOUR PRICE, DO NOT LET THEM ADD IN LITTLE FEES HERE AND THERE NO MATTER WHAT EXCUSE THEY GIVE YOU. MAKE IT CLEAR THAT THE CAR PRICE YOU ARE NEGOTIATING FOR INCLUDES EVERYTHING AND THERE IS NOTHING ELSE THAT GOES INTO IT ONCE YOU HAVE AGREED ON A DEAL. THIS IS A COMMON PRACTICE AMONGST ALL SALES PEOPLE BECAUSE IT’S HOW THEY CAN MAKE EXTRA CASH.

Written by Jason, Consumer Advice Editor
Posted: July 21, 2008
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